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I have lots of help
setting the body back on the frame.Since I dry fitted it before painting I expect it to go together with no problems.I used
2 hoist ,the rear hook up was two 3/8 bolts thru a peice of chain using the body mounts at the front of the trunk.
- The front is hooked in the triangle behind the cowl mounts.Padding was used between the
cables and the cowl.It was a big step seeing the body back on the frame again.
After sitting the body
down I had to change some shims from my drawing to fine tune door gap alignment. I had no paint damage as everything
went as planned.
The plater suggested
to sandblast the back side before and paint a rust inhibrater after plating the bumpers.I brushed this product on and
waxed before bolting the sections together.After assembling them on the car I'll finish up the exhaust system.
I had all the connections pre made for the wires but because there is no room to work it was very hard plugging the wires
together and hooking up the transmission linkage.This has to be done before installing the mufflers.
I
do not recommend using a cleaner-sealer in the fuel tank.My friend purchased a new tank and it had rust inside and a pin hole
leak on the bottom.I purchase two new tanks and used the sealer kit from a credible supplier for added protection.One tank
I installed on the car and put gas in, the other I stored for future use.After one year the sealer on the driven car had a
chemical break down,the other came out in sheets as the picture shows.
I proceeded
in this order:The bumpers,exhaust and the fuel tank last.I used stainless bolts on the bumpers and fasten rags to the rear
fenders when installing the them.
Putting the steering
column together.Put the chrome and adjusting collars on first before fishing the wire through the column.Use a light coat
of grease on the column and adjusting colar.
A big step
forward was finishing the tops.Go to the side bar and click on tops for this part of the restoration. I'm planning on
completing this project by spring.
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