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CONVERTING A
NEUTRAL SAFTY SWITCH TO START IN PARK
MATERIALS REQUIRED:
2 ea. #4-40 X 1" brass screws
2 ea. #4-40 brass nuts
2 ea. #18 gauge wire terminals
2" #18 gauge insulated copper wire
TOOLS REQUIRED:
Soldering Gun and Solder
#4-40 Tap and Handle
Electric Drill
5/64 and 3/16" Drill Bits
PROCEDURE:
1. Pry open 4 clips on the switch housing.
2. Carefully remove black plastic section from housing.
3. Clean grease from bottom (contact side) of plastic section.
4. Scribe two lines through the contacts
lengthwise on the contact side.
5. Scribe a horizontal line 5/16" above the top set of contacts (Used
for the back up
lights).See fig. # 1 .
6. Drill two 5/64" holes through the intersecting scribe lines.Using the 3/16 drill bit,
drill a small dimple on the contact side for the screw head to fit down in.
7. Using a #4-40 tap, thread the two holes through the plastic.
8. Drill a slight counterbore in the plastic section on the contact side with a 3/16"
drill bit.This dimple provides a resting point on the contact for the sliding
spring
loaded switch.
9. Grind or machine the heads of the two
#4-40 X 1" brass screws until the screwdriver
slot is no longer visible.The
head should be around 3/16" in diameter after grinding.
10. Thread the screws though the plastic section,
starting from the contact side.When
the screws are sticking out enough,place
two #4-40 nuts on the threaded end and
tighten them up against each other.Using
a small wrench,turn the screws and snug
them up until the heads of the screws
are flush with the plastic and sitting down in
in the counterbore.
11. Remove the double nuts,solder a jumper wire to each of the neutral wires (Red-
Blue Strip) and connect each wire to the new screws above them with a wire
Terminal.Put a nut on each screw and tighten them,making sure the wire is
only
touching that post.See figure #2.
12. Cut
the screws off above the nut with a pair of diagonal cutters.
13. Reasemble the contact plate housing after
a film of grease has been applied to
the contact side.Make sure
the gasket is in place.
14. Re-crimp the metal housing to the plastic plate.
15.Test with
an ohm meter before re-installing the switch on the car.
When done you
have added two new contacts and jumped the contacts over
to the park position.
Correcting the clearence on
the trunk lid swinging arm so it doesn't scrape the paint off.
1- Drive a small screwdriver in at the top of the
hinge just above the opening or stop that
is cut into the swing arm.
2- Spread the hinge arm
out away from the stationary part enough to get a pry bar in.
3- Pry the hinge arm outward away from the hinge base at
least one inch or more. As you
pry it out you will see the hinge stop on the hinge arm.What you are doing
is bending
the hinge arm to compensate for the wear in the hinge pivot pins.
4- After you pry that
side out drive a wedge (large chiesel) in to keep it spread and repeat
the # 2 and 3 operation on
the other side.
After you do the above raise and
lower the lid to see if it is clearing as it travels up and down. Notice the clearence on the picture above.
Putting the side glass in the door
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| Peeling the glass from the channel |
I'm not going to get into
putting new glass into the frame.If you go to "Related links" other people explain it well. The biggest problem
I had was getting the glass out of the bottom channel.The method I used was a 1/4 piece of steel rod with a screwdriver end
ground on it.I put 2 pieces of plywood on the glass and held it in the vise.With a little patience it seperated fairly easy
by putting a vise grips on the end and tapping gently.
It took me 6 hrs. to put my
first window in the door.I thought I had it figured out but I spent 8 hrs. putting the 2nd one in.The biggest problem was
getting this part in which I'll call the rear channel.Click on the picture and notice the boss at the top.Make sure the
threads are clean and oiled on the stud and turn it in as far as possible.
I found it was important to put the parts in the door in the right order:
1. Make sure the felt in
the runners are in good condition and the guides are clean and
lubicated.
2. Put the regular in first and loosely attach with the 6 retaining screws .
3. Position
the division bar and vent window into the door.
4. Position the glass assembly in the door.
5. Raise the window to the highest point and prop with a stick.
6. Install the rear run assembly making
sure the guide rollers enter the track and the
window frame into the rear
run channel.
7. Attach the rear run assembley and the division bar with proper hardware.
8. Finish by assembling the regular arm and plate assembley putting the rollers into the
proper guides.
9. Adjust the rear run upper stud,install and adjust the upper glass stops.The stops must
be adjusted with the top up to provide a good weatherseal.
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